Lot 77 Peggy Moffitt's Rudi Gernreich 'George Sand' cut-velvet ensemble, Fall 1967

labelled, comprising: a rust-brown tailcoat with eyelet embroidery overall, gilt lion's head buttons, bust 91cm 36in; matching trousers with slightly flared hems, waist 66cm, 26in; an alternative mini skirt with slanting pocket flaps; a cutwork black velvet waistcoat; and an ivory satin blouse with flared cuffs (5)

This suit in luxurious cutwork velvet with its 19th century inspired redingote cut jacket, with matching waistcoat and trousers. Gernreich liked to play with androgynous looks and Peggy decided to christen this suit after the famous 19th century French female novelist Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin (1804-1876) whose pen name was George Sand.Her novels were enormously popular in the 1830s-40s. She flouted gender expectations of her day -wearing men's clothing. Male attire enabled her to circulate more freely in Paris than most of her female contemporaries and gave her increased access to venues that barred women, even those of her elevated social standing. She caused more scandal by smoking cigars in public and by her openly taking numerous famous male lovers (mainly leading dramatists, artists, composers and novelists of the day) including Frederic Chopin. When she died Victor Hugo wrote a short tribute for her funeral.

'In this country whose law is to complete the French Revolution and begin that of the equality of the sexes, being a part of the equality of men, a great woman was needed. It was necessary to prove that a woman could have all the manly gifts without losing any of her angelic qualities, be strong without ceasing to be tender ... George Sand proved it'.

Exhibited:

‘The Total Look The Creative Collaboration between Rudi Gernreich, Peggy Moffitt, and William Claxton’ - Museum of Contemporary Arts, Los Angeles, Feb 26 - May 27, 2012, Scad Museum of Art, June 22 - Oct. 7, 2012; Cincinnati Arts Museum, Feb 28 - May 24, 2015,

‘Fearless Fashion: Rudi Gernreich’ Phoenix Art Museum, April 7-September 26, 2021